| List of Plates | |
| Acknowledgments | |
| A Note on Transliteration | |
| Ch. 1 | Introduction | 3 |
| Ch. 2 | The Pilgrim and the Anthropologist | 20 |
| Ch. 3 | The Anthropological Study of Pilgrimage | 34 |
| Ch. 4 | Observing Pilgrimage: Churches, Icons, and the Devil | 49 |
| Ch. 5 | Pilgrimage Observed: The Journey and the Vow | 76 |
| Ch. 6 | The Observer Observed | 101 |
| Ch. 7 | An Island in Space, an Island In Time | 120 |
| Ch. 8 | Writing the Story/History of the Church: The Panayia and the Nun | 134 |
| Ch. 9 | Of Nations and Foreigners, Miracles and Texts | 156 |
| Ch. 10 | Women, Performance, and Pilgrimage: Beyond Honor and Shame | 193 |
| Ch. 11 | The Virgin Mary and the Body Politic | 229 |
| Ch. 12 | Epilogue: In a Different Place | 250 |
| Notes | 259 |
| References Cited | 287 |
| Index | 309 |
